Cosmetologists are all too familiar with the following questions and claims from clients: “How do I get my hair to grow?” “My friend said she used this product and in less than a month, her hair grew 5 inches…” “Someone told me about these vitamins that make your hair longer and thicker in six weeks. I know it works because they had before and after pictures in the ad!” Cosmetologists all know that the real question should really be, “How can I achieve healthy hair?” Many products such as topical solutions, oils and vitamins used in “slogan” advertising boast of miraculous hair growth. However, it is important that cosmetologists provide clients with sound, educated, professional advice and facts to set them on a solid path to achieving and maintaining healthy hair. Just because hair is long, doesn’t mean it’s healthy. Many would agree that healthy hair is soft, shiny hair that has bounce and elasticity whether your client rocks natural curls, a smooth relaxer, braids, locks or funky twists. No matter the style, it is possible for everyone to achieve healthy hair.

There are many factors to consider when consulting with your clients about the overall health of their hair. Although some share similarities, each client will be unique in their plight to achieve their goals. Often, just visually inspecting the clients hair along with touch and smell will give you a starting point to begin your consultation. Listen to what your clients share with you about their hair. Here are a few key questions to open the conversation:

Are you taking any medications?

This includes but is not limited to: birth control, hypertension (high blood pressure) medication, Thyroid (over/under active), controlled substances such as cocaine, methamphetamines and barbituates also play a major role in loss of density and growth. Thyroid and hypertension medications will almost always directly affect hair growth, texture and density. Different forms of birth control will also display the same adverse effects when used over long periods of time. Some of the questions that are necessary to achieve success may seem intrusive or personal but they are extremely necessary to make the right decisions for your client.

Heredity?

Ask your clients to share information with you about the hair growth patterns of their mother and grandmothers. Commonly referred to as androgenetic alopecia, hair loss can be noticed in early teens and typically by the age of forty, clients have shown more visible signs of hair loss. This gene can be inherited from either side of the family or some cases, both. Although some very severe cases of this form of alopecia have been seen, it is very rare that women will go completely bald. Most common areas of hair loss for women are at the temples and crown. Men develop more of a horseshoe pattern commonly known as male pattern baldness. Unfortunately, unlike many other forms of alopecia, the follicle can not be altered in the structure and the number of follicles will not change or revert back, rendering the hair loss permanent.

What is your styling regimen?

As you visually inspect the hair of your clients, pay close attention to the hairline. Inquire about how often they wear ponytails, braids (cornrows, micros etc.) Find out how often they use thermal styling tools or hair rollers. What type of rollers do they use: magnetic, sponge or clip-ons? Short pieces throughout the head could point to excessive heat and blow-drying. You will be surprised by some of the at-home styling regimens your clients develop!

Traction/traumatic alopecia is common among the above mentioned styles which results from pulling and twisting the hair. It can also be experienced from excessive use of thermal appliances and chemical applications. Generally this condition will reverse after the trauma/tension has stopped.

Post partum alopecia is common with many women who have given birth within the last three to nine months. Individuals that received an epidural at the time of delivery can often times experience excessive shedding for up to 24 months. Fortunately this too is completely reversible.

Alopecia areata—the most common form of hair loss—happens when there are no other visible signs of disease or disorders and the loss occurs in patches. Most commonly brought on by stress, it is usually confined to a few areas and almost always reverses back within a few months.

After an extensive consultation, explain the stages of hair growth to your client in simple terms. Let them know that all hair goes through a growth period that lasts approximately two to six years at a rate of about a half inch per month; and a resting period that lasts about two to six months. New hair grows alongside the old, forcing it to fall out and this falling out/shedding stage lasts about one to two weeks. This process is necessary to make room for new hair to come in. Under normal circumstances, everyone loses about 40-100 strands of hair daily. This sounds like a lot, but considering that the average adult has about 100,000 strands of hair on their head it’s really not.

Diet is also very important! Foods that are high in saturated fats like fast foods, deep fried foods, etc. can throw a wrench in the path to healthy hair success and reaching your goals. There are several foods that will promote healthy hair and skin such as salmon which is packed with omega3 fatty acids, b12 and iron. Dark green vegetables like broccoli, spinach and collard greens provide vitamins A and C which help produce sebum. Beans like pinto, red, kidney and lima give good amounts of protein along with zinc and biotin. Nuts like almonds, pecans and cashews can help prevent excessive hair shedding. Eggs, whole grains, flax seed, oysters, and carrots to name a few are all excellent sources of natural oils and vitamins to promote overall health. Remember a healthy body equals healthy hair!

It is imperative that you stress to your clients the importance of regular trims along with a healthy diet and exercise. Large amounts of water taken in daily while decreasing caffeine and nicotine intake will almost instantly boost hydration in hair and skin. Exercise promotes blood circulation in the body and scalp. Weekly shampoos and deep conditioning coupled with hydration treatments will instantly put and keep your client on the path to healthy hair!